Rabat is just a short walk from Mdina, but although the former capital may take centre stage, this oasis of history and vernacular architecture offers its own dose of charm.
Words by Domenic Cucunato
Perched in the highlands of Malta, Rabat is a village where the past whispers through a labyrinth of honey-hued limestone streets and the Mediterranean breeze wafts through the pjazza on the steps of St Paul’s Church.
To visit Rabat is to be surrounded by an eclectic tapestry of history, woven into the fabric of everyday life. A village largely unchanged in its identity since antiquity, Rabat has remained and retains the characteristics of ‘the village life’, both in its physical construction and socially, evident in the built environment and the numerous authentic local festivals, vendors, cafés and restaurants.
Rabat’s streets, with their meandering paths and sun-kissed stone façades, are a testament to the town’s Roman and Arabic origins. Located to take advantage of the water reserves that naturally percolate through the underlying limestone bedrock, as far back as 1000 AD, its inhabitants were using an elaborate system of water galleries containing shaft wells, known as qanat to deliver water.
The qanat system, crafted during Roman times, is a marvel of engineering, which has sustained the village for millennia and remains as a testament to the ingenuity of its inhabitants.
When walking the streets of Rabat, the varied architectural influence of a colonial history is evident in the Neo-Renaissance, Baroque and British Victorian elements of the masterfully hand-carved façades.
Perched on the town’s edge, one of the most magnificent examples of a Maltese villa is Luginsland, with its elegant design and lush gardens, commanding a panoramic view of the island. Today transformed into a cultural hub for art exhibitions and events, it offers a glimpse into the opulence of the nobility, who chose to make Rabat their home in the 19th century.
Not far from it stands the iconic Casino Notabile outside the walls of Mdina. An ornately decorated neoclassical structure, it was originally built as a gathering place for Malta’s elite. Its intricate reliefs and exquisitely crafted details exude both a skill in craftsmanship and sophistication in aesthetics.
On a sunset stroll, starting from the Domvs Romana and down beside the Għeriexem valley, one of the most scenic views of Malta can be enjoyed. Depending on the time of year, it is either a lush green meadow, or an auburn golden field, both equally as beautiful.
In the distance stands the British-era railroad bridge that spans the valley, a relic from the days when a steam railway connected Rabat to Valletta. Though the trains no longer run, the bridge remains a poignant reminder of Malta’s colonial past, seamlessly blending with the town’s landscape and offering yet another layer of historical intrigue.
Life in Rabat unfolds at a leisurely pace. Just beyond the town’s borders lies the countryside, where gentle landscapes stretch into the distance, and the densely forested former hunting grounds from the Knights' era, known as Buskett Gardens, beckon for moments of escape.
In Rabat, nature and history intertwine effortlessly, offering a peaceful retreat for those who seek solace in quiet, sun-drenched corners. The town’s warmth is reflected in its close-knit community. Local cafés serve traditional Maltese fare, their aromas wafting through the air, inviting you to sit and savour each bite, while family-owned shops and markets line the streets, where personal connections flourish with every exchange.
Despite its idyllic seclusion, Rabat is well connected to the rest of the island, offering easy exploration of Malta’s bustling cities and coastal treasures.
For those who long to immerse themselves in Malta’s rich heritage, while savouring a life of quiet elegance, Rabat offers an unparalleled experience. With its architectural gems, ancient wonders and serene landscapes, it is a place where the past and present coexist harmoniously – a true sanctuary for the soul.
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