Christmas in the Capital

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Valletta takes on an especially magical mantle during the festive season. Follow this day tour to soak it all in.

Words by Ramona Depares


It’s the city that graces a million Instagram posts; an influencer within its own right, dictating the itineraries of thousands of tourists every year… And come Christmastime, Valletta – Malta’s UNESCO-heritage, baroque capital – becomes so much more than just a ‘Share’ magnet. Enjoying a huge revival during the past two decades, it’s dotted with bars, theatres and restaurants vibing from early afternoon till the early hours of the morning, with gastronomy, theatre and music events taking place on the daily.

Join me on this one-day tour with a local – I won’t take up your time with an obvious list of must-sees, like the stunning St John’s Co-Cathedral, Renzo Piano’s Parliament House, or the panoramic Upper Barrakka Gardens, which are undoubtedly already on your list (and if not, you really need to rethink it). Instead, allow me to uncover a series of lesser known, but no less enchanting, attractions. Walk with me down to the very bottom of Strait Street first thing in the morning, before the bars wake up from their slumber, right to Borg Bakery. This is the very same bakery where, come Sunday, my mother – alongside other families – would drop off her Sunday roast to be cooked in the wood oven. Today, it remains the best place to enjoy freshly baked pastries and bread, making for an excellent (and inexpensive) breakfast. You can also sample the renowned Ħobż tal-Malti (Maltese bread), baked the traditional way. Traditional bakers are very much a dying breed in Malta, but here, you can enjoy a slice of piping-hot bread straight out of the oven to ward off the winter freshness. You will be happy you carbed up as you walk across the fortifications to reach the area used to be known as Due Balli. Reminiscent of the Quartieri Spagnoli in Naples, this is where you will find the heart of the original residents. Many still follow the grassroots way of life, with balconies and front porches decked out in Christmas decorations, chattering across houses, chilling on the doorstep with a glass of tea – yup, drinking tea from a regular glass is a thing here. And most don’t mind photos taken, as long as you’re willing to smile and chat for a moment. When you’ve had your fill wandering around, it’s time to drop into St Dominic’s church, a two-minute walk up Merchants Street. While its art is understandably eclipsed by the Caravaggio in the Co-Cathedral, here you can feast your eyes on masterpieces by Giuseppe Calì without crowds jostling you. It’s also an excellent location to find a moment of mindfulness away from the hustle and bustle outside. Then, when you’ve rested, drop in at the recently opened Black Friars Museum, showcasing historical artefacts from the history of the Dominican Order. There’s a good chance you’ll be in need of sustenance by the time you’ve had your fill of history and art. And if it’s liquid sustenance you’re after, a quick pint at The Pub in Archbishop Street, two blocks up, is a must. The bar was made famous when actor Oliver Reed passed away of a heart attack during one of his infamous benders there.

Not quite under the radar, but worth a stop for its unique character, today it attracts an eclectic crowd of theatre people, musicians and fans of the late actor, eager to see all

the memorabilia. There are plenty of lunch options a stone’s throw away, and with the heated outdoor eateries, you will also be able to enjoy the Christmas carols that add good cheer to the busy streets. My advice is not to be too tempted by all the different cuisines in this hectic area and to keep things light as you stretch your day in Valletta to include dinner and drinks. A quick stop at Is-Suq tal-Belt (the Valletta Food Market) should be enough to replenish the energies; and if you’re a fan of good coffee, grab a takeout from Lot 61 next door. This is proper, ethically sourced, blow-your-socks-off stuff – ask for the Brazil beans, you’re welcome. There are plenty of shops to keep your credit card busy as you walk around Merchants Street and Republic Street, nursing your take-away coffee. But Valletta is not just about high-street and designer brands. Make sure you take a detour off the beaten path to Melita Street, St Paul’s Street and Old Bakery Street, as this is where you’ll find the smaller artisan shops with handcrafted jewellery, home décor and upcycled clothes. And as the clock strikes five and the sun gets ready to set over Manoel Island, it’s time to walk up the majestic Piano steps to Hastings Gardens, oft forgotten but providing the perfect view to snap golden hour. By now the evening crowd will have started milling into the capital, getting ready for post-work drinks and events. It’s the perfect time to drop in to Santa’s City, set up next to the iconic Triton Fountain at the entrance to Valletta. Grab some mulled wine and qagħaq tal-għasel (honey rings) from the food stalls before making your way to the Ferris wheel that offers views stretching across the island.

If you’re not too tired after the day’s exploring, there are plenty of other entertainment options taking you late into the night. For fans of traditional panto, Teatru Manoel is putting up Rapunzel – make sure you get your tickets online as it tends to be very popular. If classical music is your jam, many of the Valletta churches put up Christmas-related concerts, often without the need of purchasing tickets. The Jesuits’ Church Foundation has a full programme that you can find on their Facebook page. Valletta is at its most beautiful after dark, and the Christmastime weather should be mild enough to allow you to enjoy outdoor drinks and dinner even after a theatre show or concert. Whether it’s a Michelin-star restaurant, or a cheeky pint and some street food that tickles your fancy, the night is yours to make the most of. And of course, it’s only fitting that you end it in Strait Street, the former red-light district that today serves more as a hub for artists and tiny cocktail bars.


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