One of only two on the Maltese Islands, the Delimara Lighthouse is special because it also offers truly unique holiday accommodation.

Words by Din l-Art Ħelwa

A lovely base for winter walks, and equally appealing in summer, given its proximity to the limestone cliffs and coves, it offers spectacular views of the fishing villages of Marsaxlokk and Birżebbuġa. What is it about lighthouses that make them so iconic? Definitely their location makes them picturesque, providing a dramatic silhouette against the raging (or not so raging) sea. Their relative isolation has won them a place in romance too, often associated with a broken heart looking for solitude. But they also command a special place in the hearts of mariners, providing as they do not only a warning about treacherous rocks ahead but also the first indication that home is not too far.

This is perhaps the best attribute of Delimara Lighthouse, which stands 24m high, at the top of the cliff overlooking Marsaxlokk, at the end of a peninsula justifiably proud of its azure waters, sheltered bays and popular swimming coves. The British-era lighthouse itself first started operating in 1855, with additional buildings being added nine years later. The octagonal tower – now painted in bold black and white stripes – rises above the two-storey building, which is primarily made of the local Globigerina Limestone. The lighthouse is one of only two on the islands, the other being the equally picturesque Ta’ Ġordan, outside Dwejra, with Delimara offering guidance to ships approaching from the south, and the other to those arriving from the north. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 had a dramatic impact on the number of ships crossing the Mediterranean between East and West, putting Malta at the centre of the busy shipping lanes, especially those to and from Egypt. However, Delimara – thought to be a corruption of the Arabic term dejr l-imnara, meaning the house of the lantern – is special for a number of reasons: it is the only one on the island equipped with Fresnel lenses; and it is available as truly unique holiday accommodation. First the lenses: French scientist Augustin Fresnel in 1823 invented a lens system to reflect the light sources out to sea. Eventually, a British glass factory came up with the idea of having the lens mounted on a rotating table, enabling each lighthouse to create an individual series of flashes rather than a simple light. The original red lantern was eventually replaced by red and white lenses, which alternated at intervals of 30 seconds, with visibility that extended 15 nautical miles out to sea.

Time took its toll, and you can still identify damage to the outside sustained during World War II. However, the damage to the lighthouse over the years was not just caused by war but also by general wear and tear. The light mechanism itself was reported as being faulty as early as 1956, and the red and white lights were replaced by a white light, which flashed every 12 seconds and was visible for 18 nautical miles. At some point, it was clear that a more up-to-date technical solution was required, and a new tower was built nearby by the Armed  Forces of Malta, with the lighthouse being decommissioned in 1985. At this point, it fell into even worse disrepair until it was eventually, in 2006, entrusted to Din l-Art Ħelwa, the national trust for Malta, by its owner – the Malta Maritime Authority, today Transport Malta. A massive restoration project, sponsored by the Malta Maritime Authority, was started and took several years, although restoration is, alas, not a one-time affair but something that is ongoing. Each intervention also requires careful study and research to ensure the sustainability of anything that is done, adding to the time required.

The lighthouse, which used to accommodate a lighthouse keeper and his family, was conveniently already divided into two living spaces, making it the ideal location for visitors seeking a truly unique experience. However, when the kitchens and bathrooms were fitted, it was found that it had no drainage system at all – not even a cesspit! As there are no drainage systems in this area of Delimara, the DLĦ restoration team decided that a cesspit had to be constructed. Works also included the delicate restoration of the light and lantern mechanisms and their housing, as well as the complex system of glass prisms. When it was eventually completed – insurance company Gasan Mamo also sponsored some works – the lighthouse was made available for rent, either as two separate apartments or with the two combined, accommodating up to 10 persons.Today, it makes a lovely base for walks in the winter, as well as for summer, given its proximity to the limestone cliffs and coves, such as the popular St Peter’s Pool and Kalanka, offering spectacular views of the fishing villages of Marsaxlokk and Birżebbuġa, as well as of the nearby Fort Delimara. Whatever you have planned for your holiday, a trip to this area is definitely recommended, allowing you to imagine long-gone days when steamships plied the waters and the church in Marsaxlokk was still being built to guide fishermen back to their homes.