Edinburgh may be draped in history, but it's those unexpected moments in this compact capital city that truly make you live its charm.
Words by Ramona Depares
Scotland’s capital is one of those destinations I kept putting off. Not because I wasn’t fascinated by the mix of gothic grit and high-street brands – far from it. But because I kept trying to plan my holiday around the Fringe Festival that takes over the city every August, while leaving it too late to find decent accommodation at decent prices. And so, one day, I decided it was going to be a spontaneous drop-in without the pressures of the Fringe. After all, Edinburgh itself doesn’t need any additional reasons to visit it. It hits most travellers’ interests, from architecture to live music, shopping, hearty food, nature and cool museums. And what’s more, everything is located within a compact area that doesn’t require much planning. I figured it was time to make the most of an unexpected long weekend in September and go beyond the fringe.
It turned out to be an excellent decision. Edinburgh seems to be perfectly planned with a four-day itinerary in mind, the layout of the city being such that you can experience all the mainstream attractions within a couple of days, with some time leftover for off-the-beaten-path locations too. Because there really is plenty to see and do, my advice is to list all your personal musts and take it from there. Edinburgh Castle should be your first stop, even if you’re not particularly interested in history. The views are gorgeous, and if you want to witness the 1pm gun, make sure you don’t go on a Sunday.
To avoid history overkill, follow this with a meander around Victoria Street, easily the prettiest part of Edinburgh. I think I must have killed a good three hours at the vintage and souvenir stores here. The Grassmarket area makes another excellent break from the Royal Mile, with plenty of shops sporting independent fashion designers, bookstores and artisan giftware. That said, do take your time wandering along the beautiful chaos that is the Royal Mile. Granted, it’s full of tourist traps, but it’s also full of character and unexpected architectural treasures. Keep an eye out for the carts selling deep-fried Mars bars. I know, not exactly a health-friendly option but pretty unbeatable as one-time treats go.
A panoramic must is Arthur’s Seat, the volcanic rock that is reached from Holyrood Park. The hike takes around two hours in a circular route, but it’s very straightforward I finished it with a very basic level of fitness and the views are incredible. It was a clear day, so I could see as far as Forth Bridge. If two hours sound like too much, you can cheat and stop at Dunsapie Loch, which still yields stupendous views of Edinburgh.
On the New Town side, I recommend spending a couple of hours at the Scottish National Gallery. Entrance is free and the permanent exhibition includes some surprising big names like Titian, Rembrandt and Vermeer. If you have time for a short trip outside of Edinburgh, colourful Duddingston is worth the 30-minute walk from Holyrood Park. The little village dates back to the 12th century and is home to Duddingston Loch, the only natural freshwater loch in the city. Weaving through the cobbled stone streets makes a nice break from the chaos of the city centre. And if you’re lucky, you’ll snag a table at the Sheep Heid Inn, which claims to be the oldest pub in Scotland.
Finally, set aside a half day for doing nothing except wandering around aimlessly. Edinburgh may be draped in history, but it's the unexpected moments a tune echoing from a close, the scent of fresh scones wafting from a hidden café, the sunshine hitting the spires and rooftops that truly make you live its charm.
PASSAGGI SUGGESTS: Tips for getting around Edinburgh
- Walk! Edinburgh is extremely walkable, even when crossing from the Old Town to the new part. It’s worth shelling out a bit more for accommodation that’s bang in the centre of the city, as you’ll have everything at your toe tips. I opted for the Premier Inn that’s right on the Royal Mile – bland, but comfortable and beautifully central. If you think you’re going to spend more time in the New Town, there’s one on Princes Street.
- The most popular attractions are scattered across the Royal Mile, which is slightly longer than its name suggests. When you’ve had enough history and you want to hop off for a spot of high-street shopping, the shortest way to head over to the New Town is by crossing the North Bridge and continuing on to Princes Street.
- Two main attractions that will require transport are the Edinburgh Zoo though I’d give that one a miss as it’s not exactly big on ethics and the Royal Botanic Garden, which is spectacular and certainly worth a visit if the weather’s right.
- If you really don’t want to walk, the tram system is very easy to figure out and you don’t need to buy tickets – just tap your credit/debit card and move along. That said, the three-day tickets may make sense if you plan on using public transport often. They’re valid both for trams and buses, but be aware that buses can be a pain to figure out.
PASSAGGI SUGGEST: What and where to eat
- I’m not going to insist that you try the haggis. If you’re squeamish, it’s not for you. And I’m not going to lie by telling you that Scotland is up there in terms of memorable cuisine. It really is not. That said, it delivers even better pub food than London, which is saying something.
- I focused heavily on this during my visit, for several reasons. It’s less expensive, more hearty, and the pub vibe fits the personality of the city more than the fine-dining restaurants. Some of my favourite pubs are nestled in the Grassmarket area, making them perfect for a quick break from the Royal Mile.
- The fare served is pretty standard burgers, meat and pies with a few vegetarian options, but most pubs give classic dishes their own spin. The White Hart Inn, for instance, serves a pulled mushroom chilli that’s so sumptuous it’s popular with meat eaters too. The Last Drop, a short walk away, has a dazzling lamb pie served with haggis. Pubs in this area tend to be packed during the day, but nowadays, most of them have an online booking system, which makes things a lot easier.
- If you’re only going to include one fancy restaurant on your itinerary, make it The Witchery by the Castle. It’s located right at the gates of Edinburgh Castle in a 16th-century building that now also offers luxury accommodation. Dress to impress, and expect an adults-only, electronics-free environment.
- Word of warning: most restaurants and pubs take a last food order at 9pm, but after that, you’re facing the prospect of fast food only.
You can reach Edinburgh with KM Malta Airlines via Amsterdam with KLM, Brussels with Brussels Airlines, London with British Airways, Munich with Lufthansa and via Paris with Air France.
