A Personal Journey Through Malta’s Historic Harbour City

Words by Claude Zammit Trevisan

Discovering Birgu (Vittoriosa), Malta’s Historic City One of my earliest childhood memories is visiting Birgu’s Tuesday market with my mother and grandmother. I must have been five or six, and I can still remember the bus stopping in front of the landmark Café Riche its famous chariot sign perched above a wide green door framed by bougainvillea.

I recall the taste of pink sugar-coated almond sweets, the Pyrex glasses filled with milk tea, and the warmth of the elderly women who would chat with us while we sat in the café’s indoor garden.

Years later, as a young graduate fascinated by Maltese history, I met local historian Lorenzo Zahra from Birgu. His stories of Grand Master La Valette and the heroic defence of Malta during the Great Siege of 1565 sparked my imagination and deepened my love for this remarkable city, known historically as Vittoriosa.

Living Among Birgu’s Timeless Stories Lorenzo introduced me to Birgu homeowners and encouraged me to make this city my home. I did. Twenty-five years later, I cannot call myself a true local, yet those born here have embraced me as one of their own.

Birgu sits on a promontory of the Grand Harbour. You do not pass through Birgu; you arrive with intent. Its geography gives it a strong sense of place. Despite centuries of maritime exchange and influence, Birgu has preserved its historic streets, palaces, and traditions better than anywhere else in Malta.

Café Riche still stands, its chariot intact. The market still takes place every Tuesday. And in the main square, the statue of Vittoriosa, which Lorenzo proudly described as a symbol of victory, remains exactly where it has always been.

Churches, Feasts, and Birgu’s Living Traditions Names like Lorenzo, Laurence and Wenzu are common here, reflecting devotion to St Lawrence, Birgu’s patron saint. Equally popular is Dominic, in honour of St Dominic. Both St Lawrence’s Church and St Dominic’s Church are worth a visit, not least for the charming stairway leading from St Lawrence’s Church into the main square, and the Inquisitor’s Palace opposite St Dominic’s.

Every August, Birgu bursts into colour during its twin religious feasts, when the city turns red for St Lawrence and blue for St Dominic. These week long festivities are an unforgettable cultural experience in Malta, and anyone visiting should witness at least one.

Festivity, however, is part of Birgu year round. Most houses carry flagpoles, with colourful flags flying high over the city. At night, under the stars, rooftops crowned by these majestic flags are a sight to remember. Once a centre for sailmaking during the era of the Knights of St John, Birgu now keeps this spirit alive through its love of flags and maritime pride.

Birgu’s Maritime Soul The Dgħajsa and the Grand Harbour Birgu is inseparable from the sea. Malta’s very own gondola, the dgħajsa tal-pass, was once a common water taxi until the British naval base closed in 1979. Today, trips from Birgu to Valletta in a dgħajsa, rowed by a traditional barklor, remain a daily ritual. They lend Birgu a Venetian charm and highlight its closeness to Valletta, separated only by a sheltered stretch of the Grand Harbour.

Birgu and Malta’s Defining Moments

Some of Malta’s greatest historical events unfolded in or around Birgu

• The Great Siege of 1565, when Birgu was at the heart of the Knights’ heroic defence.

• The Santa Marija Convoy of 1942, which saved Malta from famine during World War II and is still remembered on Victory Day with a dgħajsa regatta.

• The closure of the British naval base in 1979, marking the end of a long military chapter.

Even in modern times, Birgu has been a stage for history. I recall the unforgettable sight of Malta’s red-and-white flag projected over Fort St Angelo in 2004, celebrating Malta’s entry into the European Union.

Why Visit Birgu, Malta?

For me, Birgu lives under my skin. It has shaped my life since childhood, and I yearn for it whenever I am away. It is a city of memory, festivity, and maritime soul. For visitors, Birgu (Vittoriosa) is more than a destination it is the essence of Malta and the true soul of the Grand Harbour.

Passaġġi Suggests Birgu by Candlelight Festival

If you wish to experience Birgu at its most enchanting, don’t miss the Birgu by Candlelight Festival (10–11 October). This annual, community-driven event lights up the city with thousands of candles illuminating its historic streets and squares. It is a magical moment to discover things to do in Birgu at night and connect with the city’s spirit.