Never cook in a bad mood
Words by Passaġġi
Chris Mifsud Bonnici, the force behind Valletta’s Legligin and a true enthusiast for anything Maltese.
Chris embarked on a culinary journey when he opened his first restaurant in 1993, inspired by his mother’s traditional recipes. In 2007, all his accumulated ideas and experiences came together to form Legligin, which he infused with the essence of home-cooked Mediterranean cuisine, emphasising quality ingredients and slow-cooking techniques. His passion for his home island is palpable in every aspect of Legligin’s ambiance and offerings; there’s a story hiding in every nook and cranny, and Chris will be happy to tell you about it, lending more charm to an already warm and welcoming atmosphere.
When and where did your passion for gastronomy start?
For certain, my passion for food started early in life thanks to my mum. She was an old-school cook, who believed in simplicity but also variety. No two meals were ever the same, but what was constant was a delicious aroma emanating from the kitchen. You could smell it from outside and, back from school, I would sprint up the stairs to dig into the hearty dishes she would have prepared... Everyday something different and always delicious! Sundays were extra-special as my aunts, who were also superb cooks, would be there with their children, and the large kitchen was bustling with activity. Four ladies all cooking their specialties, serving treat after treat to a crowd of hungry men and kids!
Who did you learn most from in the kitchen?
Firstly, my mum. From an early age, I would watch in fascination as she effortlessly went about her business in the kitchen. I remember her explaining to me the importance of having everything organised and to clean as you go along. She had a passion for wild herbs, which are essential for the local cuisine, and she would explain the virtues of each and with what they go best. Secondly, Manuel Zarb, who I met in my late 20s when I had opened my first restaurant. Manuel was a super talented young chef, who taught me innovation and adventurism. While sharing with me the discipline of cooking the traditional way, he was also not afraid to experiment with different combinations of ingredients. He instilled in me a taste for taking risks while still staying loyal to the Maltese style of cooking.
What has been the biggest milestone in your culinary career to date?
That was a long time ago, when a room full of guests started clapping when I emerged from the kitchen one day at the end of a busy dinner service. It was totally unexpected, hugely uplifting and filled me with a great sense of gratitude, pride and self-confidence. Being included in the Michelin Guide recently was quite huge as well!
Your all-time favourite ingredients and how you use them best…For sure garlic and wild herbs, together with onion and tomatoes; they are the ‘mother’ or foundation of Maltese cooking.
Your go-to meal to win over family and friends… It’s a toss-up between the traditional fenkata (our rabbit meal) and the ħutata, which features a variety of local seafood, including my particular way of slow cooking the octopus in its own released juices and finishing off in wild garlic, lemon and herbs.
Who cooks at home? Mostly me, but I simply love my wife’s Ukrainian specialty dishes.
Your favourite comfort food… Xikel tal-majjal u żalżett (slow-cooked pork shank and sausage stew with potatoes and vegetables) mopped up with Maltese bread… Yummy!
What would you never say no to (foodwise)? My sister’s lasagne and my wife’s meat cakes.
Complicated haute cuisine, or alla buona home cooking? Always home cooking!
Healthy or sinful, decadent and rich? Sinful, decadent and rich surely! However, when cooking fish, it’s quite healthy since you only need olive oil, herbs and a grill/steamer!
A culinary secret you can share… Never cook in a bad mood! Also use coarse sea salt and peppercorns for your seasoning not fine salt and pepper. The seasoning should be done prior to and during cooking. Never add later! Use the right pots and pans. Their quality determines how well the food is cooked. Use fresh ingredients and taste as you cook.
When you eat out, what do you look for? I like eating in smaller places with shorter menus. I like a welcoming experience; I like having each dish explained to me; and I also appreciate the chef’s recommendations.
Do you pass on dessert? I generally do not eat dessert at home and usually opt for some nice smelly cheese, but when eating out, I always order a dessert.
The ideal customer profile… The customer who arrives hungry and is keen to try the local specialties. The customer who asks about the preparation of the dishes and the ingredients used.
Who in the world would you like to cook for and why? The Pope as he would surely be honest and tell me the truth about whether he likes my food. Such an occasion would fill me with joy and surely bring out the best in me.
What do you say to someone with no confidence in the kitchen? Choose another career! One cannot grow and learn without having the confidence to try new things and make mistakes.
What’s the most important skill to lead a catering establishment? Perseverance… once you have a clear idea of the concept and you believe in it. That is the key to achieving and maintaining your establishment. It takes hard work and persistence to make it happen, with many obstacles along the way.
The cuisine that has influenced and inspired you the most… Maltese – and Gozitan – cuisine are a reflection of the islands’ history; the North African influence in terms of spices and the various European influences throughout the centuries, especially the French and Italian. The latter probably inspires me the most.
Where would you travel to eat, again and again? Italy. It’s like many countries in one.
Your idea of quintessentially Maltese food… Lots of seafood… the heavy use of garlic and herbs; slow-cooked hearty meat casseroles, mopped up with crusty Maltese bread.
Your own take on a local dish… Bragioli tal-vitella fiz-zalza tal-lumi (milk-fed veal stuffed with cheese, sage, mushrooms and spinach, simmered in a creamy lemon and walnut sauce).
Is Valletta Malta’s culinary capital too? Most definitely! It now has the highest concentration of quality restaurants on the island.
Three words to describe the local restaurant scene…Diverse, authentic and evolving.
