Take in the city through the eyes of an artistic director, museum by museum

Words by Andrew Borg Wirth

With enough time in between to really soak up and be inspired by this centuries-old crucible of culture, innovation and imagination. Few cities pulse with creativity quite like London. It is what first drew me there when I moved in 2021. I landed with no agenda but to be moved, and the city delivered. Of course, the pandemic had other plans, but even at the most dire of times, culture found a way.

A centuries-old crucible of innovation and imagination, the uniqueness of London lies in the fact that it can be a haven, for everyone. I was always drawn to the East, but across the whole city, there is something for people to admire and enjoy. In London you can wander and be led by the crisp air of one of the world's most exciting hubs. I've always thought the city wears its artistic spirit on its sleeve. Most recently, I have enjoyed time spent at the National Portrait Gallery. Escaping the drizzle outside, I'm in awe of the newly refurbished galleries. Art historian and curator Nicholas Cullinan, who was responsible for the new ideas at this iconic venue, has delivered a museum for the contemporary age. The juxtaposition of portraits on the ground floor is still imprinted on my mind, and it remains magical as you make your way up. A personal favourite is the monumental doors, adorned by artworks by foremost British artist Tracey Emin. The city is always alive. I try to make it each time to the Tate Modern, the Southbank, and of course the Barbican, where the conservatory remains a silent oasis in an otherwise hectic and energised city.

The Barbican is a brutalist build and creative centre, which I am most inspired by. I love the synergy of disciplines and the way that spaces overlap. The library, the galleries, the theatre and the open spaces hold some of my fondest memories from my time in London. In each place, there is a public programme that one can only experience at any single point in  time. This takes your visit a bit further and makes you interact in more detail with a single artefact or theme. Two locations that not many know of are the Wallace Collection and Sir John Soane's Museum. They are curious buildings with incredible historic collections. I often spent time in the pink café at the Wallace after my visits because the light begs you to remain. I have made it to Soane's practically every time I have landed in London.

It is magical and I love losing myself in all the nooks and crannies that make it so special.

The theatres are, of course, another great component of the London experience. The National Theatre, the Royal Opera House and Sadler’s Wells are just a few of the places I've loved being an audience member at. And all this hasn't even allowed me to talk about the food! You'll need it in between the long hours spent walking across the city. Get lunch at the Barbican one day. If it’s raining, it feels all the more special. Then there’s the glorious seafood platter at The Cow, a gastropub on Westbourne Park Road. And of course, the English love their Sunday roast at the pub. If you’re into that (I’m not), you won’t need my advice. They’re everywhere. I've had some great summers in London and was surprised to enjoy them so much. You imagine grey skies and dreary weather, but this moves quite fast. The rain doesn't last long, and it could actually get quite hot. Don't leave a museum and run to the next. Take in all that you've just seen, sit in a park and close your eyes. Soon enough, you'll realise you are in a place that millions have been inspired by before you. This is your chance.

What to do and where to go:

• If you’re having a lazy afternoon, I always love strolling through Borough Market and eating from here and there. Try a toastie, a celebration of freshly baked bread and Borough Market fillings.
• If you’re not in a rush and can catch a bus rather than take the Tube, catch a bus. It’s fun seeing the city buzzing from one story above.
• If you finish late one night and are staying somewhere under an hour away, walk. London has this incredible architectural spectrum – from churches to office blocks to brutal modernist beacons. It’s so beautiful to see the lights reflecting on the Thames.
• Sunday mornings in the park are the best. I loved London Fields and the food market, walking all the way to Columbia Road market for flowers and interior curiosities.

PASSAGGI SUGGESTS

This June, there is one place you need to be at without any doubt. No one should travel to London without making it to Somerset House to see the national pavilion Malta is presenting at the London Design Biennale 2025, commissioned by Arts Council Malta.

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