Gozo’s majestic heart
Words by David Carabott
On a late summer afternoon, I boarded the ferry to Gozo, accompanying a friend on a couple of errands. With a few hours free in the capital, Victoria, I found myself wondering whether I would finally make it to the Cittadella, also known as Il-Kastell. I made it to the top just as the warm sun began to kiss the honeyed Maltese stone, while the Mediterranean Sea and sky shimmered in deep shades of blue. Each step felt like a gentle return to something timeless. For a few blissful moments, the world seemed to pause. The beauty of the fortress and its surroundings was almost magical, carrying me back through time.
Gozo’s majestic heart The hilltop fortress dominates Gozo’s skyline, visible from every corner of the island. Only a few people live within its walls today, yet it resonates with the echoes of those who once sought shelter, worshipped and governed here. As I wandered along the winding streets, I felt the weight of history surrounding me while taking in the natural beauty. This ancient walled city is also home to several endemic species of flora and fauna and is a designated Natura 2000 area. A glimpse through time The Cittadella has been occupied since prehistoric times, with evidence of settlements from the late Neolithic, Bronze Age and Phoenician period. Under Roman rule, Gozo was elevated to a privileged municipality, and the hilltop developed into a complex acropolis serving administrative, military and religious purposes. Over the centuries, the site evolved into a medieval fortress and later a stronghold, rebuilt by the Knights of St John between 1599 and 1603.
History here is tangible. The northern walls bear traces of Aragonese construction, while their southern counterparts flank baroque and military architecture from the Knights’ era. The fortress withstood corsair raids, Ottoman attacks and even Napoleon’s brief occupation. And in 1551, almost the entire population of Gozo was taken into slavery after an Ottoman siege.
Hidden treasures and timeless wonders Every corner of the Cittadella told me a story. Coats of arms adorn façades, some weathered by centuries, others scarred by past conflicts. I marvelled at Norman-style windows, carved arches and hidden shrines that invite discovery and reflection. Even the smallest details, from worn doorways to medieval stonework, spoke of resilience, creativity and continuity across generations.
The Cittadella complex also houses the old prison. During my school days, many years ago, I remember being fascinated by the story of Fra Jean Parisot de Valette, future Grand Master and founder of Valletta, who was imprisoned there for four months in 1538. I finally visited this prison. Inside, the Visitors’ Centre brings history vividly to life. Housed in 19th-century water reservoirs, it offers interactive exhibits on the evolution of the Cittadella, its people and the local flora and fauna. Nearby, the Cathedral Museum, the Museum of Archaeology, the Folklore Museum and the Gozo Nature Museum reveal the island’s artistry, traditions and everyday life across the centuries. I lingered in the Folklore Museum, captivated by the objects and imagining life in centuries past. In the Museum of Archaeology, I paused before the Majmuna Stone, its Arabic inscription echoing across time, and the quintessential Roman statue of the wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, a striking reminder of Gozo’s classical ties. While at the Nature Museum, a huge megalodon shark tooth transported me back millions of years, a tangible trace of the island’s ancient origins.
The narrow streets are full of surprises. Each step revealed details I might have missed at first glance, from carefully carved stonework to traces left by Napoleon’s troops. The piazza and the view The grand staircase leads to the main piazza, dominated by the Cathedral of the Assumption. Inside it, don’t miss looking up at the trompe l’œil ceiling, a painted illusion. The fake dome is the work of Antonio Manuele Pippi from Messina, created in 1739. Instead of signing his name, he painted a small gecko or lizard, which can still be seen on one of the right-hand windowpanes. The ceiling was inspired by the famous Sant’Ignazio di Loyola church in Rome, where Jesuit artist Andrea Pozzo created a remarkable 3D dome illusion in the 17th century. Another intriguing feature can be found outside, by the side of the church: ex-votos in the form of etched ships and boats from centuries past, left by those whose prayers for a miracle had been granted.
From this vantage point, I could see Gozo stretching below in a patchwork of fields, rooftops and distant hills, while the sea sparkled towards the horizon. The sun’s rays softened as it dipped, transforming the Maltese stone into warm honey tones. Why you must visit Every stone, every view, every detail tells a story. Unlike crowded tourist sites, here, one can pause, reflect and truly feel connected to the surroundings. Even beyond history, the fortress delights the senses. The scent of wild herbs drifts through the streets, the breeze brushes one’s face and sunlight plays across the stone walls. Panoramic views of Gozo and the Mediterranean create a sense of calm and wonder; a moment to pause and soak in the beauty. An experience to remember As I descended, I carried more than just photographs. I held a connection to Gozo’s past, an appreciation for its resilience, and a memory of beauty and tranquillity. Climbing to the Cittadella was not merely an uphill struggle; it was an intrapersonal challenge. I immersed myself in centuries of history and, as the sun set, casting its glow over the sea and sky, I understood why this place has captured hearts for generations.
