One of the largest, oldest and most populated localities in Malta
Take a walk through time and curious landmarks in Birkirkara, a major central residential and commercial hub with a rich history.
Birkirkara, often shortened to the friendlier B’Kara, is one of Malta’s larger towns by population, and logically, you are never too far away from someone who hails from there (or has an uncle who does).But the town is not only known for its size, and proud inhabitants; it also packs heaps of history, curious landmarks and a good dose of vernacular wisdom, which provide the perfect backdrop for our town of interest this month.
The people of Birkirkara are known as Karkariżi, but they also have a curious nickname, which could be loosely translated into ‘those of a flat bottom’! There are a few theories as to the origins of this, but perhaps the most plausible and creative relates to one of the town’s biggest prides: the large bell in St Helen’s belfry. In fact, this bell is the largest to complete a set in any church in Malta, and legend has it that when the villagers were pulling at the ropes to hoist it in place, some 100 years ago, something must have gone wrong, because they all went tumbling, bum-first, down to the ground. Hence the nickname. Thankfully, the bell survived, and today, its beautiful, deep voice can be heard by churchgoers and townspeople alike.
The Basilica dedicated to St Helen sits at the centre of Birkirkara and is a beautiful example of Maltese baroque architecture. The majestic façade is the work of Maltese 17th-century architect Salvu Borg, together with master builder Domenico Cachia. The feast dedicated to St Helen, Emperor Constantine’s mother, is celebrated in August each year and is a favourite homecoming for Karkariżi of all ages. The unique morning procession is a moment of pride as it features one of the island’s finest religious works of art, the wooden statue of St Helen by the celebrated Maltese sculptor Salvatore Psaila. It is said that he fashioned the saint’s likeness after his own wife and it is considered one of the island’s most loved titular statues.
For those interested in the less trodden path, Birkirkara has a fascinating history to discover, which makes for a wonderful walking tour. For example, the town is home to the island’s best preserved train station, harking back to the time when Malta too had its own single-line railway connecting Rabat to Valletta. Ġnien il-Ferrovija, or Railway Garden, is a tranquil pocket of peace and quiet in the middle of the highly urbanised town and is a mecca for railway enthusiasts who enjoy visiting the early 20th-century train station and the one remaining wagon. The garden is not too far from the old parish of Santa Marija, a Renaissance-style church that served as the main parish of the town until the basilica was consecrated in the 18th century. The church, which has since been reinstated as the parish due to the growing demography of the town, features fascinating graffiti of ships from the time of the Knights of St John, scratched into its side walls by devout sailors, a sign of its ancient history.
On the same side of town is the historic St Aloysius College, run by Jesuit priests, and one of the island’s foremost educational institutions. It is considered the de facto training ground for Malta’s political class, as an inordinate number of Maltese politicians sat on the school’s benches.
Down the road is Birkirkara’s famous valley, the commercial district of the town. Here, locals and residents from neighbouring localities congregate to purchase their daily needs, with numerous shops lining both sides of the thoroughfare. This is where you are most likely to meet an authentic Karkariż and perhaps hit it off on hot topics such as the beloved Birkirkara FC, which plays in the national Premier League, or the eternal band club rivalry between the greens and the reds. Whatever you do, don’t take sides!
Up the road is another remarkable landmark, the modernist sanctuary dedicated to St Therese of Lisieux, better known as St Therese of the Child Jesus. Completed in 1982, the church is a fine example of brutalist architecture, designed by Italian professor Giorgio Pacini of Rome. It is one of a handful of post-Vatican Council II churches, giving a Maltese nod to the democratisation of faith and enhanced participation of the faithful. Not too far off is the 18th-century Ta' Ganu Windmill, built in 1724 during the reign of Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena. Through the centuries, the structure was used for multiple purposes, even serving as an unlikely air-raid shelter during World War II. In the 1990s, it was entrusted to renowned contemporary artist Gabriel Caruana, who made it his own artistic laboratory and exhibition hub. Since Caruana’s passing, the building lives as a monument to his artistic and often provocative expression. Villino Grech is an iconic, modernist building from the 1960s, impossible to miss on Naxxar Road. The private residence, built by entrepreneur Carmelo Grech, is a favourite among illustration artists and architecture students, given its distinct international-style design. Its iconic V-shaped colonnade, supporting the conservatory above, gives the protected building its uniquely quirky look.
One final place to visit would be the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Tal-Ħerba, very close to St Helen’s Basilica. The present church dates back to the early 17th century but it sits on the site of an earlier one that had existed since at least 1575. According to tradition, a crippled man was miraculously healed on the spot on hearing the church’s ringing bells. Needless to say, the miracle opened the floodgates to pilgrimages from near or far, as far as Sicily, Spain and even the UK! The church annex has a remarkable collection of ex-voto offerings, a heartfelt display of devotion and faith. At this point, you must have worked up a serious appetite, so make sure to drop by Dolceria Barigozzi in the tiny street opposite St Helen’s Basilica for a quick snack or whatever seasonal goodie is on offer!
