A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Words by David Carabott
Lyon balances the grandeur of the past as it embraces its future. Every bridge in the French city seems to connect not just neighbourhoods, but also to centuries of culture and life.
I never thought I would visit Lyon. Until recently, it was not even on my travel radar. I had already explored Nantes, Lourdes, Metz, Menton, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, Corsica and Paris, the latter repeatedly. So, I believed I had seen the best of what France has to offer. But when my friend Geremia invited me to celebrate his 50th birthday in Lyon, where he lives, I immediately booked a ticket – not to see the city, but to celebrate with him. Little did I know that this seemingly unassuming place in southeastern France would steal my heart in just a few days.
Nestled at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, modern-ancient Lyon is a captivating blend of ancient history, extraordinary Renaissance architecture, world-class gastronomy and modern innovation. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, the city balances the grandeur of the past as it embraces its future. Every bridge seems to connect not just neighbourhoods, but to centuries of culture and life. Lyon is also referred to as France’s culinary capital, and now that I have been, seen and conquered, I believe this to be true.
A hilltop welcome Geremia lives on top of Fourvière Hill, Lyon’s spiritual and historical heart, in the 5th arrondissement. From his window, I had sweeping views of the city. I could admire the spires of the Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica and the sea of red rooftops that stretches towards the horizon. I quicky realised that Fourvière is more than just a pretty perch. Just a short walk from Geremia’s home are the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre, the remnants of Lugdunum, an ancient city, once the capital of Roman Gaul.
Lyon is known as the birthplace of renowned Roman emperors Claudius and Caracalla, adding substance to its historical depth. We visited the nearby Gallo-Roman Museum, cleverly built into the hillside, where beautifully preserved mosaics, statues and artefacts tell the story of Lyon’s imperial past. This was my first real clue to Lyon’s secrets, found around every corner, waiting to be discovered.
The ghosts of the Canut As I climbed the cobbled Montée de la Grande Côte in Croix-Rousse – Lyon’s other historic hill, once renowned for its silk industry – I could almost hear the ghosts of the Canut (the 19th-century silk workers and weavers of Lyon) rushing down to trade with the merchants below.
The steep lanes in this area are lined with bohemian shops, hidden traboules (passageways, often through the interior of buildings, connecting the streets), and former silk workshops now transformed into rental apartments. From the summit, I gazed across the Presqu’île peninsula, the refined heart of the city, where grand 19th-century boulevards, bustling squares and lively cafés embrace the two rivers.
Through time in Vieux Lyon One day, we wandered down Vieux Lyon, the city’s old quarter. With its cobbled lanes, pastel historic buildings and lively squares, where echoes of medieval life meld with the splendour of Renaissance architecture, it felt like stepping into a storybook from centuries past. But the real magic was behind closed doors. Geremia led me through a few of Lyon’s legendary passageways hidden behind heavy wooden doors, cutting through courtyards and buildings and leading us from one street to another. Originally used by silk weavers, and later by Resistance fighters during World War II, these traboules are among the city’s most unique features.
PASSAGGI RECOMMENDS
The food, oh, the food!
No story about Lyon would be complete without due attention to the city’s culinary scene. The birthplace of legendary chef Paul Bocuse and a stronghold of traditional French gastronomy, Lyon is a paradise for food lovers.
My culinary adventure began at Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse, a shrine to Lyonnaise food in an indoor market. There, I tried cervelle de canut (pictured above), a superbly creamy, herbed cheese spread; I also tasted freshly shucked oysters, paired with a glass of crisp white wine, and enjoyed pink tarte aux pralines as a dessert. Later, at the bustling Saint Antoine Market along the Saône river, I joined locals as they shopped for their weekend meals. With over 100 stalls selling everything from roasted chickens and fresh produce to homemade pâtés, it’s no wonder that Lyon’s clever chefs swear by local markets such as this one. But the true heart of Lyonnaise cuisine lies in its bouchons – traditional bistros that serve hearty, no-nonsense dishes in a convivial setting. At La Meunière, I savoured a warm salade Lyonnaise, topped with bacon and a poached egg, followed by a comforting quenelle de brochet à la Lyonnaise, swimming in a creamy Nantua sauce. Such dishes are rooted in the culinary legacy of the Mères Lyonnaises – pioneering female chefs who built the city’s gastronomic reputation in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The label Bouchons Lyonnais on restaurant windows is an official designation awarded to authentic establishments.
PASSAGGI NOTES
A glimpse into the future Lyon is more than a historical city – it also embraces innovation. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Confluence district, a reclaimed industrial zone transformed to a futuristic eco-hub.
I spent a leisurely afternoon exploring this area’s modern, extraordinary architecture, riverside parks and cultural spaces such as La Sucrière, a former sugar warehouse now hosting contemporary art exhibitions. At the striking Musée des Confluences, shaped like a glass-and-metal spaceship, I immersed myself in exhibits on science, anthropology and the history of humankind. And from there, I hopped on the vaporetto, a river shuttle boat, to continue my exploration of the city. During my visit to Lyon, I also enjoyed a day trip to the majestic French Alps, just two hours east of the city.
As my time in Lyon came to an end, I found myself reflecting on how a place
so rich in history and culture could still be so dynamic and forward-looking.
The city gave me the perfect balance of the old and the new, the familiar and the unexpected.
Planning your next trip? ✨Lyon has it all food, culture, charm, Click here to find the best fare!
