A slice of comfort and joy

Rich, chocolatey and unapologetically indulgent, the Maltese Christmas log is a festive no-bake favourite that is as comforting as it is joyful

The season of sweet abundance and jolly indulgence has finally arrived. We’ve been dieting for eleven months, so pull up a chair, load up your plate, and let’s celebrate. And of all the festive treats tempting our tastebuds, this one takes the biscuit… and then some.

 

Behold the fudgy, nutty Maltese version of the bûche de Noël, our very own take on the Italian salame di cioccolato. The Christmas log a no-bake delight packed with nuts (that counts as healthy, surely), laced with booze, and containing enough calories to power you up a mountain or sink you into a blissful food coma on the sofa. Either way, it’s irresistible. I know I sound like an advert, but honestly, this is my favourite part of Christmas. It’s gloriously fuss-free: more of a delicious improvisation than a recipe. Just rummage through your biscuit tin, gather the odds and ends, stir in some cocoa, nuts, candied cherries and a splash of your chosen spirit and voilà, dessert is ready just in time to impress your mother-in-law. Every household has its own version of the traditional Christmas log, especially when it comes to the alcohol I used Grand Marnier this year because I needed to use up the dregs of an old bottle. Plain butter biscuits, hazelnuts and walnuts (sometimes almonds too) are combined with condensed milk, dotted with jewel-like candied cherries, enriched with cocoa powder, and then brought together with a generous tot of something warming, with whisky or brandy being the spirit of choice. The mixture is then rolled into a long cylinder, chilled, and finally cloaked in a glossy layer of chocolate.

I like to think of it as a decadent echo of winter itself rich, dark and shaped like a fallen branch from nature’s own feast. Almost every fridge in Malta will harbour one, ready to be sliced and shared with coffee or a glass of port. Many families prepare several at once, destined to  be wrapped up and gifted to friends, neighbours and unsuspecting visitors. I sometimes break with tradition and shape the mixture into praline-sized balls before covering them with chocolate.The Maltese Christmas table itself tells a story of influences and evolution. Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when Malta was still under British rule but steeped in Sicilian traditions, our festive menus became a happy hybrid of both worlds. Soup gave way to timpana, that glorious baked pasta encased in pastry; goose was the centrepiece for the well-to-do; chicken for others.

Today, roast turkey and gammon reign supreme. Dessert once meant qagħqa tal-għasel, the black honey ring that is now available all year round, but over time, it made room for English plum pudding, mince pies and of course the dense, fruit-packed Christmas cake. (I feel full just writing that.)And yet, amid all this culinary mingling, the Maltese Christmas log has carved out its own place, a sweet synthesis of Mediterranean thrift and British indulgence. Rich, nostalgic and just a little over the top, it’s the taste of Christmas in Malta: homemade, heartfelt, and, yes, full of comfort and joy.

How to make your Christmas Cake

Makes a 30CM log

INGREDIENTS

 
 
  • 200g plain biscuits (Petit Beurre) ground to fine crumbs
 
  • About 50g each of roughly chopped walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds
 
  • 100g candied cherries, chopped
 
  • 1-2 heaped tablespoons of cocoa powder
 
  • 300ml sweetened condensed milk

 

  • A generous tot of whiskey or brandy
 
  • 150g baking chocolate to decorate

METHOD

Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl using enough alcohol to bind the mixture into a dough-like consistency.

Using your hands, spread the mixture on baking parchment and shape into a cylindrical log.

Cover and leave in the fridge overnight to set.

Melt the chocolate and cover the log completely.

Use a fork to mark out the bark of the log, then put it back in the fridge to set again.

Take the log out about 30 minutes before serving.