With good food, street life, architecture, history, markets, what’s not to like?
Dua Lipa and Callum Turner's recent extravagant three-day wedding festivities may have cast a global spotlight on the Sicilian capital. But we did not need to wait for the pop star and her actor partner to choose the city for their destination wedding to know it has always been worth a short break and especially now that KM Malta Airlines has launched direct regular flights till October.
WORDS BY Ramona Depares
My first memory of Palermo is the smell of frying oil drifting through a narrow street; a man arranging crates of oranges outside a shop and two women talking across a balcony, the street between them no obstacle to their enthusiastic patter. I had only been in Palermo for one morning and could already see why it’s so popular with the Maltese. The only question was why I had resisted this part of Sicily for so long, especially considering it works so well as a short break from Malta. Palermo is close, familiar in many ways, but completely different in others. It has the Mediterranean noise we know and the seaside vibes we recognise. But it also has a darker, more theatrical energy. Palermo serves palaces, markets, churches, washing lines, opera houses, street food, traffic and peeling façades all within the same five-minute walk.
It’s the ultimate Gen Z dream of authenticity. That said, make no mistake about it. For a Sicilian town, Palermo is large. Everywhere is within walking distance, you’ll be told, and it’s not a lie. However, that only works if you’re already staying in the centre of town and don’t need to factor in an unreliable bus schedule each morning of your stay. For my first visit, I stayed well within the historic centre, close to Quattro Canti, Via Maqueda, the Cathedral, or Teatro Massimo, which were all on my (loose) itinerary. Palazzo Natoli Boutique Hotel turned out to be an excellent choice, small and close to Palermo Cathedral and Quattro Canti.
The food? Troppu bonu Like all Sicilian cuisine, the food in Palermo is not delicate. Think bold, salty, fried, messy, sweet… sometimes all together in one bite. Do what I did and look out for the markets first, specifically Ballarò. It is loud, crowded, and theatrical, with vendors calling out over stalls of fish, fruit, herbs, offal, panelle (chickpea fritters), arancine and whatever else happens to be sizzling. Heads up that it can feel slightly overwhelming at first, especially if you’re expecting a curated farmers’ market. For a classic Palermo institution, Antica Focacceria San Francesco is worth a quick visit despite being popular enough to veer dangerously into tourist trap territory. It dates back to 1834 and is known for pane câ meusa, the spleen sandwich that separates the culinary committed from the merely curious. Happily for me, there are plenty of other luscious treats that don’t require a walk on the wild side. I probably sampled every flavour of arancina on offer, gorged myself on caponata and panelle and finished off with cannoli. Yup, you’re going to need that stomach space.
The markets are lovely, but let’s be honest nothing beats a long sit-down dinner, starting with an aperitivo and finishing off with an amaro. Buatta Cucina Popolana was one of my best calls, the pasta con le sarde turning out to be quite a highlight. Book ahead, especially at weekends. We had a somewhat posher experience at Seven Restaurant Rooftop Garden, above Hotel Ambasciatori: cocktails, dinner and a wonderful view of all the domes, rooftops, mountains and broken geometry of the city. Avoiding culture fatigue There’s lots to do in Palermo, so don’t fall into the usual trap of wanting to fit in everything on your short break. You’ll be going back, anyway, trust me. Start by exploring the Arab-Norman route – Palermo Cathedral, the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel showcase the city’s layered history beautifully. The gold mosaics in the Palatine Chapel are particularly jaw-dropping. Afterwards, walk through Quattro Canti, stop in Piazza Pretoria for an espresso, visit La Martorana (the Church of St Mary of the Admiral) and San Cataldo, if time allows, and just enjoy the city. Teatro Massimo is also worth a hop, even if you are not going to a performance. The architecture drips drama, and you can take a guided tour. If you have time for a day trip to the beach, it takes about 40 minutes to reach Mondello by bus from the city centre. Think stretches of pale sand, clear water, seafood restaurants and Liberty-style villas. Go early, because the beach fills up as fast as Malta’s very own Għadira, despite being considerably bigger.
Getting around Since you’re already staying in the centre, you won’t need much by way of transport. Bus tickets are cheap, and you can simply get a day ticket for less than €4. The PMO Tourist Card is worth checking out if you are planning to use buses heavily and make use of discounts for restaurants, taxis, tours, shopping, or Teatro Massimo. However, for the average short break, you probably don’t need it. Getting to the centre from the airport is easy as the train station is right beneath the terminal, and the service connects to Palermo Centrale. Even though I resisted it for ages due to the somewhat cliché connotations, Palermo is absolutely worth a short break from Malta. There’s good food, street life, architecture, history, markets, and a bit of chaos in a good way. What’s not to like?
