This city is a delight at any time of year.

whether it’s for cherry blossoms in spring, swimming in the lake in summer, golden autumn walks, or dazzling Christmas markets.

Quick quiz: Which is the capital city of Switzerland? Is it a) Geneva; b) Bern; c) Zurich; or d) none of the above?

No, it’s not the one you’re thinking. Switzerland technically does not have an official capital city defined in its constitution.

While Bern, delightful as it is with its porticoed walkways, functions as the de facto federal city, and Geneva is the diplomatic hub, with its iconic Jet d’Eau sprouting water sky high, like its cost of living, Zurich is the symbol of Swiss economic stability.

The country’s largest city, and a global financial hub, it is consistently ranked among the world’s most liveable places, if not one of the most expensive. Or as my son puts it: “Everything happens in Zurich.” On Bahnhofstrasse, the main thoroughfare of luxury shops leading from the cavernous main train station down to the lake, quiet wealth strolls unhurriedly, savouring the richness of life with every expensively clad footstep. Zurich is a sophisticated, genteel, well-respected lady who never shouts but expresses herself in measured, educated tones of elegance and culture. Ostentation is shunned in the city, but then wealth is so ubiquitous it’s simply taken for granted. Even on the rare days when the streets are full enough to be described as ‘crowded’, the city still feels as serene as the mountains that surround it. But do not be fooled by those twee little lanes in the old town. The city is as cosmopolitan as London, as trendy as New York, and can even put on an edge when it wants to, just on a more boutique scale.

Behind the polished, somewhat reserved façade beats a surprisingly creative and rebellious heart. Zurich is the birthplace of the disruptive Dada art movement, home to cutting-edge design studios, and an early champion of techno music, which is now celebrated in full force at the annual Street Parade. Most visitors land at Zurich Airport, admire its polished floors, and head straight to the reliably punctual trains to whizz off on their grand tour of Insta-famous sites. But it would be a shame to miss out on a couple of days in the city itself. I’ve lived in the neighbouring canton of Zug for 20 years, and every time I pop into the city, I feel I should swap my country-bumpkin garb for my Sunday best. You don’t want to look too shabby in Zurich. It may not have Italy’s design pedigree or Paris’s haute-couture flair, but you’ll still want to shine your shoes and run a comb through your hair before stepping onto Bahnhofstrasse, if you know what I mean.

My first stop is always Globus, the Swiss answer to Harrods, where I pretend I can afford the high-end designer wares on the ground floor and plump for some delicious treats from the gourmet food hall in the basement. The Limmat River that meanders across the city down to the lake, separates the newer part with its shiny office blocks from the Altstadt with its quaint medieval streets, guild houses and churches. Trams rattle across the city, but many locals prefer commuting by bike. In summer, the expansive lakeside promenade and parks are a joyous bubble of locals enjoying long balmy evenings, swimming and picnicking. Historic public baths dot the river, including the Frauenbad at Stadthausquai, which was built for and is still exclusively used by women.

In winter, the lake does not freeze over enough for ice skating anymore, but the narrow streets of the old town hide cosy cafés for a warming cup of heisse Schoggi. My favourite is Café Schober (now known as Café & Conditorei 1842) housed in a cute 13th-century building with a plush, dark red velvet room upstairs that reminds me of a bordello not that I would know, of course. While I usually go to Zurich for errands or shopping, I love taking some time to meander aimlessly, soaking up the romantic atmosphere of the old town, following the aroma of roasting chestnuts in winter and the trail of cherry blossoms in spring. It can take a while for Zurich to embrace you. It reveals itself slowly, like a shy blossom opening up, petal by petal. Expats often find the weather and culture differences a challenge, but we soon learn to love those differences.

Singaporean artist Amy Ang, who has lived in Zurich with her Australian husband and two boys for 18 years, admits it was hard adjusting to Zurich’s dry, cold winters after her home country’s endless sunshine and humidity. “I have learned to embrace the seasons and look forward to the myriad traditions, activities, food and change in landscape that mark each one. Picture-perfect Zurich changes its façade with every turn of the weather like a fickle, wealthy socialite,” says Amy as she proceeds to describe the city’s metamorphosis throughout the year with her inimitable, poetic artistry. “Fresh flowers cover the surface of many fountains in the old town in Zurich in spring as the icy pipes start to thaw. In summer, the lake fills with people shedding off their stifling office wear to sunbathe or have a quick dip in the cool, clear waters during lunchtime. In autumn, I love the breathtaking view of the Zürichberg covered in shades of yellow, red and gold. And finally, the smell of roasted chestnuts and fairy lights at the various Christmas markets in the city.”

Melting pot You are more likely to hear English spoken in the streets than Züritüütsch, the Zurich dialect of Swiss German, and occasionally even a gaggle of Maltese, especially around the middle of January when our community meets for the annual lunch. There will be around 80 of us under one roof, and I’m sure the whole of Zurich will know about it. Sorry, not sorry. Do not make the mistake of thinking Zurich is a mirror of everything Swiss. It is only one city in one of the 26 cantons of Switzerland, each with their own very distinct identity and unique dialect or language. Yes, there are different forms of Swiss German, as if ‘normal’ German alone weren’t already difficult enough. Change one umlaut and you’ll be marked out as hailing from another canton. The eclectic mélange of nationalities that call Zurich their home is reflected in the deliciously varied gourmet scene. Just a 10-minute tram ride away from the main station, quiet, residential Wiedikon (Kreis or district 3) and the edgy, nightclub hub of Aussersihl (Kreis 4) are the go-to spots for foodies and night owls.

“My husband and I are foodies and we love to explore new restaurants and bars in Zurich,” continues Amy. “The last five to seven years have seen the areas of Werd and Letzigrund become more gentrified, and the numerous restaurants that offer cuisine from Central Europe to Asia and South America reflect the melting pot that Zurich has become. “It has also become a hotbed for young, forward-looking chefs to create their versions of modern European cuisine, with restaurants like Rosi, Silex and Gartenhof. The area is also littered with cool modern art galleries like Karma International and Soon, and off spaces like Galerie 111 and Coin-Coin, as well as local Swiss designers and funky vintage and second-hand shops such as Caritas, Maroni Vintage and Love at the Bus Stop.”

Some restaurants are revered institutions, such as the historic Kronenhalle, where you can dine on their legendary Zürcher Geschnetzeltes of chopped veal in a creamy sauce served with rösti, while gazing at the owner’s original collection of fine art featuring works by Marc Chagall, Joan Miró, Pierre Bonnard and Georges Braque. So keen was he on his art, that in his will Gustav Zumsteg insisted that as long as Kronenhalle exists, no painting may be removed from its place. It is a great spot for a pre-theatre dinner before heading to the bijoux Opera House across the Bellevue. I somehow always end up grabbing a plate of colourful veggie creations from the buffet of Hiltl, the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world, where even the fussiest eater will fall in love with broccoli and Brussels sprouts. But for dessert, nothing beats the exquisite chocolate truffles from Teuscher, especially the ones laced with champagne. Their OTT shop decorations are kitschy but cute and you can now enjoy possibly the most expensive coffee in town at their Café Felix.

Zurich is a city that is constantly looking ahead while still embracing its past. Traditions are strongly held and devoutly followed, none more than the centuries-old Sechseläuten Spring Festival when guild members parade in historical costumes alongside musical ensembles. The spirit of winter is literally blasted away as the Böögg, a snowman perched on top of a pyre, is set on fire on the stroke of 6pm. The quicker the snowman’s head explodes, the better the summer will be. And while I wait for the burning of the Böögg in the hope that this time it will hail an early glorious summer, I will indulge in the city’s reflective winter. Zurich may not shout for your attention, but it will linger long enough and it will reward you with quiet beauty, deep-rooted traditions and a cultural heart that beats far louder than its polite façade suggests.

Zurich is calling. You coming?